Miles cycled: 54
Elevation: 4730 ft
The good news is that Portugal is so far much much sunnier than Spain… The only problem is that the roads are a little bit terrifying 😳
I got a flat tyre in the first two miles which got Alice rather excited because it meant we could use the new shiny pink Tyre Levers she had insisted we buy in Santiago de Compostela…
We have got pretty efficient at changing Tyres now and we were super happy to be doing it in the gorgeous sun rather than the fog!
But we were a bit worried at our lack of spare gaiterskins and were very happy to come across a super helpful bike shop where I also managed to replace my shoes which had finally fallen apart after carrying me across two countries… I was so sad to let them go that I carried them the rest of the day until my desperation to lose any extra weight overcame my sentimentality!
Alice was not feeling any such sentimentality as she devoured every variety of protein recovery bar available in this tiny shop – the shopkeeper was so impressed with Alice’s appetite that she asked to take a picture with her – presumably thinking she was some a professional ‘power eater’!
I sadly didn’t follow suit and as a result was seriously flagging by ‘lunch time’ when we found ourselves up a pretty big hill kind of in the middle of nowhere! I might have thrown a little bit of an ‘want a gelato tantrum’… just as Alice announced that she could see a cafe which ‘might’ be open and ‘might’ be about 5 miles further on uphill!
When we did get there I devoured a coke, a packet of peanut M&Ms and a magnum in about 2 seconds flat! I then realised why Alice is always SO Happy as the sudden influx of sugar and caffeine nearly blew my head off and made the afternoon cycle feel like I was on a motor bike!
Cycling into Porto is NOT for the faint hearted – or for the mentally sane. Alice navigated us through a complete death trap of rollercoaster cobble streets with furiously fast traffic nearly mowing us down at every turn! To be fair – Alice didn’t seem bothered at all – she was far more interested in the possibility of ‘inhaling’ a pastel de nata…
When we did eventually find our B&B we had to carry our bikes etc up about 100 steps! It was hilarious 😂! And the building itself seems to have been enchanted like one of Harry Potter’s tents – as it looks perfectly normal from the outside, but inside it opens up into a massive hall with stairs going up for miles! And Alice had kindly ensured we’d be staying on the top floor!
We are just about to devour our first Chicken Pirri Pirri of the trip 👍 And can’t wait to see Porto in the morning light!